In order to do so, we press the third string on the fourth fret, and it must sound in unison with the second one (an E note). We proceed pressing the second string on the fifth fret, and we proceed to tune the first string (an A note), now we’ll proceed to tune the third string. Once our second string is tuned, we can tune the rest. This way, the string remains more stable. If, for any reason, we go beyond, we’d rather not stretch until it’s tuned, but stretch below the correct pitch, and tighten again (without going beyond this time). As a piece of advice, (to apply every time we tune), we should always leave the note tuned with the string being tightened. Let’s say for example that we have a guitar around, and that it’s tuned indeed, so we can use the first string (E note) to tune it in unison (so that they sound exactly the same) with the second string of our uke.
This method also has different procedures, depending on which note we use as a base. We’ll use this base not to tune a specific string, and from there, we’ll be able to tune the rest, according to this one. As its name implies, we are going to tune our ukulele “based” on a note produced by another instrument or device. Tuning with reference notesĪs I already told you, this method is the least convenient, the least accurate and the most difficult one, but it will help train your ear. I’m going to explain to you 2 methods for tuning, from least to most convenient, though I have to admit that the first one, the most inconvenient and inaccurate one (as it uses an external source that “we trust”, besides our hearing accuracy…), is the one that will best train your ear. We will usually see it written as gCEA, to stress the difference of tuning in Low G.Īre we really going to tune or what? We’re getting there. To make sure there’s no misunderstanding here, the G note from the fourth string is higher than the notes C and E from the third and second strings, and just a pitch lower than the first string which is an A. What’s peculiar about this tuning is that it’s re-entrant, unlike a linear tuning, its notes don’t follow an order from low to high (as for example, in a guitar, a violin or a piano). Standard tuning on a ukulele is in C, its notes being G, C, E and A (from string 4 to 1). Tuning consists in having each string produce a note of a specific octave (to make sure there’s no misunderstanding, not all C notes sound the same on a piano, some are higher than others, though they are all Cs) through adjusting its tension using the tuners. With time, you may manage to tune without an external source, but it requires a lot of practice and an incredible ear that not all of us have. Another way of tuning is using an electronic tuner (some are especially made for ukulele, but you can use a guitar tuner), which will help us get a fast and accurate tuning. In order to tune your instrument properly, you need to know that you will need an “external source” such as another instrument (a piano, a guitar…), a tuning fork, a pitch pipe… anyway, a device that produces an actual note, which will serve as our base to tune in.
When you get to play with someone else, he/she will be glad your instrument is properly tuned.
An excessive tension may cause the strings to break, or worse (bridges out, or less usual, cambered neck) A low tension can lead to issues of strings screeching on the frets. The instrument and the strings are designed to operate under a certain tension.You ear will get used to the sound of some chords, and to how there are related to one another.Actually, it’s important to know when it’s out of tune, especially because: In case you are new to ukuleles, or if the ukulele is your first instrument (if you already played an instrument, you’ll probably already know this… or not!) you ought to know that it is very important to tune your instrument before playing. If you are reading this you are probably new to the world of Ukulele.
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